Mercredi, le 8 aout


A week ago, I took the train to the Jardin Luxembourg, it was one train stop past where I usually go, and the Gardens were right there. I could not go until afternoon as I had a morning appt.  As I alighted from the train, a most wonderful sight greeted me - and it was the perfect day, not hot, not cold, sunny and gorgeous. I was not prepared for such beauty to delight my eyes. The flowers, the statues, the fountain, oh wow, and people were out enjoying the day--reading, walking, having a coffee - I strolled as if in a dream.

After passing the fountain and straight ahead were the tennis courts and of course tennis players; it made me want to play.  To my left was the children's area, with a very old carousel, go carts, and many different things to entertain the kids, who were having fun.  Beyond this area were more fountains, statues and flowers.

The Palais here has been the seat of the French senate since 1799 (not open to the public). Both the gardens and the palace were created in the early 17th century byh Marie de Medicis after her husband, Henry IV, was killed. She wanted an Itlalian style garden to remind her of her childhood home in Florence.

I cannot recommend this area enough to anyone visiting Paris and it is free and located just near the Montparnasse-St. Germaine area.

By the way, that is a real pigeon on top of her head (bird's eye view)

I knew that the Eglise St.-Sulpice was nearby and found it by asking a policeman at the back entrance to the park--just across the street and down a little alley and there it was. Viola!

The first stone was laid on 1646 but the church took 135 years to build, mostly because soon after the first stone was indeed laid, work was stopped due to lack of funds. Construction began again in the 18th century until it was finally completed in 1778.   Here there are two of Delacroix's masterpieces.  Once a famous brothel (Maison de close) nearby catered to high class clientele in the very shadow of the church. The brothel's colonnaded facade with its green and yellow tiles still marks the place. The writer Albert Camus was a regular at the nearby Cafe de la Mairie.

The fountain in front of the church in the Place St. Sulpice is known as one of the loveliest in Paris. Known as the Fountain of the Four Bishops, this is a most enchanting square and fountain. Ernest Hemingway, in "A Moveable Feast," described the pigeons roosting on the four stone bishops of the fountain. (I started reading the book at home but did not have time to finish it, thus another book to add to my ever growing to-read
list.)

I very much enjoyed walking through the church and returned afterwards back into the gardens where I tried to order late lunch at the lovely cafe area; however, three waiters were trying to serve about 60 people and I finally gave up and went across the street where I found a Subway and ordered a tuna sub which was most delicious as I was absolutely starving.  The price was right! 

I will never forget this beautiful afternoon and the magical spell of this park; I hope to take my visitors there when they arrive.  There are so many things to do and see that don't cost anything, only your time and the logistics of getting  there.  This one was easy; the train stop was next to the Gardens. When it is nice out, families and couples get outside and enjoy the beauty of nature.

Please stay tuned; I am finishing this 2 days later and my arm is much better. I am a week behind with my writing. Tonight the neighbors are coming over for dinner; I have not even turned the oven on but hopefully it will be OK; I'm just fixing pasta and salad. The French eat their salad last, not first as we do in America, a bit hard to get used to. You also do not have a glass of wine before dinner as it is part of the meal; you might have an aperitif or similar; I am serving fruit juice and some cheese.  Wish me luck.