August 6, 2012

ALMOST TO PERFECT
Musee de L'Orangerie

I had been reading some of the art books that my exchange host has in his huge library, and was excited about visiting this museum, where so many Impressionist works are on display. I took the metro from my train stop to Place de la Concorde and walked from there through the Tuilleries Gardens to l'Orangerie. I was able to avoid the medium sized line with my 4 day ticket I had purchased (even though one is not supposed to have priority entrance).  While in line, I met a senior woman from Florida who is doing an exchange with a family here for two weeks and visiting as many of the smaller museums as possible. Her exchange contact is: HomesforExchange.com, based in Amsterdam. She told me that she has done many exchanges and really enjoys it. Her next visit will be to India.

The museum is not large and was easy to navigate.  Imagine my surprise when I entered the first room where my eyes became transfixed to four oval walls within an oval room, and on each of the walls one of Monet's "Water Lilies." Another room features the other four canvasses. The mostly blue, green and peach muted colors (and combinations thereof) made me feel as if I were being physically drawn into the painting; I can't describe it very well since it was, I think, definitely a spiritual experience. Each oval painting is of the water lilies; there is no sky and no edges so one gets the feeling of infinity.

I spent a very long time in these two rooms before going downstairs with my audio guide to the rooms devoted to all of the other Impressionist works.  I noticed a  free film was about to begin about Monet and his work with the water lilies, and wanted to know more. The auditorium was small and about 20 people were present.  I learned the story of the  how Monet was inspired to begin work on the paintings after
Monet had suffered a series of negative events in his life including a decline into poor health. When the idea for the Water Lilies came to him, French politician Georges Clemenceau in 1914 helped him get the commission to paint these enormous murals which would be placed in specially designed rooms as a gift to France.

Monet became absorbed by his work and the luminous colors of his theme.and worked on this project throughout World War I. The project helped the artist conquer his sadness. When the idea for the paintings came into his life, it gave him the motivation he needed to throw all of his energy into his work.

And now, back to the other rooms which were so thrilling and exciting -- imagine seeing so many works by Renoir, Cezanne, VanGogh, Degas, and in another room Picasso, and two artists I really love learning about Marie Laurencin and Andre Derain--  These were of the period immediately following Impressionism.  I did not take any pics today but on my return visit for sure, as I was surprised many people were photographing the great masterpieces.

I had asked the desk clerk for a recommendation for lunch, and she suggested a little cafe in the Tuilleries, a ten minute walk from the museum. Cafe--  Renard (the Fox) was fantastic; the day had turned a bit cool and breezy, but there was an indoor seating area with wide windows, enabling the visitor to experience the park in comfort. I had a most enjoyable late lunch - I think part of the magic of French food is the way it is presented on the plate. I ordered the special which was tilapia with rice - the fish was served with a yummy sauce which he told me was used for lobster. I was very hungry and happy for the bread; of course you are always served bread with your meal (sometimes it comes in a little metal bucket). After this savory moment, I still had to make room for the dessert, which was part of the plan. A small tart with pineapple filling and two little cookies with some tea completed this gastronomical adventure.   Most restaurants have a deal each day where you get an entree, a plat and a dessert.  Entree in France is not like entree in the states; as it is an appetizer (I can't remember what it was but it was very good).

I told the waiter how much I enjoyed my lunch and promised to bring my friends back here when they come to visit. I began walking again toward the Seine as far as the Louvre, where I knew one day soon I would  return. The day ended with my walk back to where I usually catch the train at Saint Michel-Notre Dame, and it was most pleasant walking along the Rue de Rivoli.

After I get to Vaujours, I either have to walk or take the bus; if physically still feeling up to it after a day in Paris,, I try to walk. Since I currently am not going to the gym or yoga, my fitness regimen now is my own yoga practice at the flat and a lot of walking which I'm sure will help get me in shape for hiking, both in Northern Ireland and after I return back to Colorado.

At home early evening, I could not stop thinking about the Water Lilies. Sometimes one hears a piece of music or sees a piece of art that sticks in your head and won't let you go. I went to bed with memories of the incredible paintings I had seen, not only the Water Lilies, but all of it, and I know I will return there soon. I drifted off to my dream, a quote stuck in my head (which I love) from Muriel Barberry in "The Elegance of the Hedgehog." --

"Thinking back on it, this evening, with my heart and my stomach all like jelly, I have finally concluded, maybe that is what life is about. There is a lot of despair, but also the odd moment of beauty, where time is no longer the same ... an always within never."