AUGUST 23, 2012 

CRUISIN' DOWN THE RIVER 

My friend from Australia, Debbie Gibson, for whom I dogsat during the 2010 trip, arrived yesterday late afternoon on the Eurostar from London (high speed train under the English Channel). This morning was her first trip to Paris.  I thought it a good idea for her to get an overview of the city the first day, and the Tour Bus is oh so touristy, so we took the metro to Hotel de Ville and got tickets for the Batobus.  This Batobus is a boat shuttle that goes up and down the Seine and visitors can get on and off where they like and stay as long as they please.

The boat first cruised down the river with possible stops at the Louvre, the Champs Elysee and the Grands Boulevards, then turned and went up the river, with possibilities of stopping at the Eiffel Tower, the Musee d'Orsay and Notre Dame. 

       We got off at the Notre Dame, bought a baguette on the street and sat in a little shady place to the side of the cathedral (I had already been through the cathedral a few weeks prior). 

 After our lunch stop, we climbed back on the Batobus and got off at the very next stop upriver, The Jardin des Plantes.  The first thing one sees from our angle is the Menagerie, which looked fantastic but is a separate fee to see it; we walked a bit further to enter the gardens, which I thought were fabulous.  

The Garden also houses a Botanical House and a Natural History Museum.  After walking from one end to the other but not taking much time to peruse the enormous display of plants and flowers, we walked back to the Batobus and boarded once again.  

crepes a la Seine

This made us want crepes!

Debbie wanted to go to the Eiffel Tower, so we went down the river again (after the boat turned around), passing our original place of embarkation at the Hotel de Ville, and half an hour later (after the boat turned around again) we got off at the Eiffel Tower.  It was a little late, about 5:30.  Debbie wanted to take pictures but had no interest in ascending it, and I had done that a few years prior.  What I wanted was an ice cream cone, so that cooled me off some (I am in love with the flavor citron (lime).  So much for giving up dairy.  The cone also made me very thirsty.   

The tower designed by Gustave Eiffel, was selected to showcase the 1889 Universal Exposition to celebrate the centennial of the French Revolution. 15,000 metal parts were prefabricated and numbered for assembly, and the 1.5 million rivets already in place before the tower went up.   Three hundred steelworkers toiled for 7 days a week for 26 months (without a single fatl accident) and the world's tallest building was completed 7 days before the opening of the Exhibition.  It was the largest and most innovative structure of its time.   Critics were less than enthusiastic and called it a "hollow candlestick."  You can read more about it on Google. The tower offers a great view that can extend  45 miles. The Jules Verne restaurant is supposed to offer a great (and expensive) view with excellent cuisine.

After re-meeting up with Debbie, we walked across the bridge to Trocadero Plaza; kids were swimming in the water and the fountains were very pretty; people were enjoying the nice day.  

 Our plan was to take the metro from there, but we never did find it, in spite of all our queries, so we finally started walking and caught the bus to the Hotel de Ville, from whence we had come that morning.  And so back to Vaujours and a bite to eat. I was all Batobus'd out and probably a bit seasick, but in truth, this was a good way for one to see the major sites with one transport for all.  I would recommend it for first time visitors (15 e).

 

August 20, 2012


LA MADELEINE

After surviving a weekend of extreme heat and humidity, I set off on this Monday to visit another site on my list, the
Opera Garnier.

I took the Metro to within one block and waited in line for about 15 minutes. The day was wonderful, and I truly enjoyed the afternoon, which ended with a visit a short distance away to la Madeleine, one of the most famous monuments in Paris, with its colossal interior.

The columns are higher than any in Greece or Rome. The interior is dark, with light coming in from three skylights in the nave. Originally planned as part of the Place de la Concorde, construction began in 1764; the building was razed, and work again halted by the French Revolution.  In 1806, it was razed for the second time, but in 1814 Louis XVIII confirmed it should be a church and devoted the building to his guillotined brother, Louis XVI.

LE PALAIS GARNIER

 

The Paris Opera was founded by Louise XIV in 1669 and the Palace Garnier the 13th theatre to house it; the Palais was built on the orders of Napoleon III as part of the great Parisian reconstruction (Barron Haussmann). The opera house was put out for competition which was won by Charles Garnier, an unknown 35 year old architect, who had the challenge of building the Opera over a lake which still lies underneath the Opera.  The building work lasted 15 years, and the palace was inaugurated in 1875.  The fountains and pools in the basement are said to have inspired The Phantom of the Opera. A copy of Garnier's bust by sculptor Carpeaux stands in the centre of the foyer, near one of the windows which looks down on avenue de l'Opera toward the Louvre.

The interior is filled with gold leaf, precious stones, frescoes, marble and the great foyer and staircase.  The Grand Staircase is built in marble of various colors; the double stairway leads to the foyers and different levels of the auditorium.  Fashionable society ladies of the past would brush their crinolines as the ascended or descended the staircase.


The huge stage can accommodate up to 450 performers; the highlight of my day was seeing the wonderful false ceiling painted in 1964 by Marc Chagall. The four sections of the ceiling depict different allegories of music.  The building has been compared to a gilded wedding cake.

Chagall False Ceiling

 Most operas now perform at other venues; the Palais Garnier is now home to a school of ballet for young students and many of the presentations at the palace are now ballets. The young artists are depicted in wonderful paintings and drawings in the Museum on the top floor.

I was fortunate to have visited here during a special exhibit which featured many of the costumes worn by artists over the years; it was a fantastic treat. and was something unexpected.

Carmen, 1959

Romeo & Juliet, 1984

The Magic Flute, 1954

   weekend heat wave is not quite finished, and the day was quite warm; but the weather seems unimportant when it is filled with the magic past of a beautiful palais.

For Turandot, les Magnettes de Jacques Duport, 1965

       

August 6, 2012

ALMOST TO PERFECT
Musee de L'Orangerie

I had been reading some of the art books that my exchange host has in his huge library, and was excited about visiting this museum, where so many Impressionist works are on display. I took the metro from my train stop to Place de la Concorde and walked from there through the Tuilleries Gardens to l'Orangerie. I was able to avoid the medium sized line with my 4 day ticket I had purchased (even though one is not supposed to have priority entrance).  While in line, I met a senior woman from Florida who is doing an exchange with a family here for two weeks and visiting as many of the smaller museums as possible. Her exchange contact is: HomesforExchange.com, based in Amsterdam. She told me that she has done many exchanges and really enjoys it. Her next visit will be to India.

The museum is not large and was easy to navigate.  Imagine my surprise when I entered the first room where my eyes became transfixed to four oval walls within an oval room, and on each of the walls one of Monet's "Water Lilies." Another room features the other four canvasses. The mostly blue, green and peach muted colors (and combinations thereof) made me feel as if I were being physically drawn into the painting; I can't describe it very well since it was, I think, definitely a spiritual experience. Each oval painting is of the water lilies; there is no sky and no edges so one gets the feeling of infinity.

I spent a very long time in these two rooms before going downstairs with my audio guide to the rooms devoted to all of the other Impressionist works.  I noticed a  free film was about to begin about Monet and his work with the water lilies, and wanted to know more. The auditorium was small and about 20 people were present.  I learned the story of the  how Monet was inspired to begin work on the paintings after
Monet had suffered a series of negative events in his life including a decline into poor health. When the idea for the Water Lilies came to him, French politician Georges Clemenceau in 1914 helped him get the commission to paint these enormous murals which would be placed in specially designed rooms as a gift to France.

Monet became absorbed by his work and the luminous colors of his theme.and worked on this project throughout World War I. The project helped the artist conquer his sadness. When the idea for the paintings came into his life, it gave him the motivation he needed to throw all of his energy into his work.

And now, back to the other rooms which were so thrilling and exciting -- imagine seeing so many works by Renoir, Cezanne, VanGogh, Degas, and in another room Picasso, and two artists I really love learning about Marie Laurencin and Andre Derain--  These were of the period immediately following Impressionism.  I did not take any pics today but on my return visit for sure, as I was surprised many people were photographing the great masterpieces.

I had asked the desk clerk for a recommendation for lunch, and she suggested a little cafe in the Tuilleries, a ten minute walk from the museum. Cafe--  Renard (the Fox) was fantastic; the day had turned a bit cool and breezy, but there was an indoor seating area with wide windows, enabling the visitor to experience the park in comfort. I had a most enjoyable late lunch - I think part of the magic of French food is the way it is presented on the plate. I ordered the special which was tilapia with rice - the fish was served with a yummy sauce which he told me was used for lobster. I was very hungry and happy for the bread; of course you are always served bread with your meal (sometimes it comes in a little metal bucket). After this savory moment, I still had to make room for the dessert, which was part of the plan. A small tart with pineapple filling and two little cookies with some tea completed this gastronomical adventure.   Most restaurants have a deal each day where you get an entree, a plat and a dessert.  Entree in France is not like entree in the states; as it is an appetizer (I can't remember what it was but it was very good).

I told the waiter how much I enjoyed my lunch and promised to bring my friends back here when they come to visit. I began walking again toward the Seine as far as the Louvre, where I knew one day soon I would  return. The day ended with my walk back to where I usually catch the train at Saint Michel-Notre Dame, and it was most pleasant walking along the Rue de Rivoli.

After I get to Vaujours, I either have to walk or take the bus; if physically still feeling up to it after a day in Paris,, I try to walk. Since I currently am not going to the gym or yoga, my fitness regimen now is my own yoga practice at the flat and a lot of walking which I'm sure will help get me in shape for hiking, both in Northern Ireland and after I return back to Colorado.

At home early evening, I could not stop thinking about the Water Lilies. Sometimes one hears a piece of music or sees a piece of art that sticks in your head and won't let you go. I went to bed with memories of the incredible paintings I had seen, not only the Water Lilies, but all of it, and I know I will return there soon. I drifted off to my dream, a quote stuck in my head (which I love) from Muriel Barberry in "The Elegance of the Hedgehog." --

"Thinking back on it, this evening, with my heart and my stomach all like jelly, I have finally concluded, maybe that is what life is about. There is a lot of despair, but also the odd moment of beauty, where time is no longer the same ... an always within never."

August 3, 2012

     I am taking you back now to the beginning of the month with two postings from that time period:

MUSEE D'ORSAY

The Musee d'Orsay recently underwent two years of major renovation; I had visited twice before, but there is so much to see. I had a morning appointment so did not get there until after lunch so will plan to see it again when friends come to visit and try to do the audio tour. The two metro stops which are most accessible to the RER train that I use have been closed for awhile, making it a longer journey. I knew that I wanted to walk back and so took the bus right to the museum; it was a couple of miles.

In spite of dire warnings for one to get tickets in advance because of long lines, the line was not very long, and after a few minutes wait we were inside. I purchased a joint ticket for the l'Orangerie and saved a few dollars this way; you have to use the ticket within four days of the original purchase.

This pic is directly in front of the museum and is not constrircted by anything else; I like it. Behind the cars in the pic is the Seine.


  I enjoyed seeing the works of the Realists, who worked in the time period just prior to Impressionism. Corot, Corbet and Millet were artists I had never previously studied, but amazingly, I remembered that our class studied Millet's "The Gleaners" in about fifth grade. I was disappointed with the guided tour that I signed up for, as we stayed mostly on the first floor. The the guide's  centered on the transition periods during the 19th century, what was considered nudity vs. what was considered pornography (scandalous). If a piece of sculpture or a painting contained a figure with a drape over part of the body, that was OK. This talk took up most of our time, and ended with us in front of Manet's "Olympia", still on the first floor.  Our guide pointed out that this particular piece was considered acceptable as the subject was looking straight out into the eyes of the beholder. She lost me at this point, and I was glad when we made our way to the fifth floor, where most of the Impressionist works can be seen. By this time I was really tired and decided to come back another day and do the audio tour, which would have been a better choice.

There is a very nice dining room here in the area before you can go out on the roof; I had eaten lunch at the small cafe, something fast and simple. It was neat to be on the roof, looking across the river to the right bank and the Louvre. I want to ride the ferris wheel; I think it is enclosed as was the Giant Wheel in Perth.  But this wheel is twice as giant as that wheel. You can buy a snack up here and stroll around enjoying the sights; it was a very nice day. You enter the rooftop right under the clock, which to me is the centerpiece of it all.

 

The building itself is amazing, as it rose from its ashes. It had burned and the ruins were left standing for almost 30 years. In 1900 the government agreed to allow the construction of a train station on the site to provide a more central location.  An architectural feat of Victor Laloux, the most up-to-date technology was implemented, including a 370-room hotel surrounding the station. Train stations around the world were modeled after it, including Grand Central Terminal in New York and Union Station in Washington, D.C.

For almost 40 years, the Orsay was the hub for traffic bound for southwest France, but by 1939 the platforms became too short for modern trains. It then went through a number of different uses, including being a holding center for returning prisoners of war.  In the 1960s plans were in place to destroy the building and replace it with a modern hotel complex.  But critics lobbied and in 1977 President d'Estaing proposed to transfer it into a museum devoted to all forms of 19th century art. It was officially inaugurated in 1986 by Pres. Francois Mitterand and became the new home for Impressionist works.

After absorbing as much on the fifth floor as I was able for that day, and spending a little time in the upper gallery, which is devoted to works by Paul Cezanne. The audio tour will be great and I hope I can do it soon.

Monday, le trieze aout 2012

AN UNPLANNED HIKE AND A NICE DAY

I decided I would finally go to a service at the American Church in Paris and had learned about it from a friend in Boulder.  I saw that there was a contemporary service at 1:30 so I slept in and made myself a nice brunch before starting off at 11:30 a.m.  It was a beautiful day.

My bus to go to the train station here never came, so  ....  after waiting 20 minutes I walked there - my trusty (old) running shoes would have quite a day. At the station I learned that the train I usually take only would go as far as Gare Nord, which is a huge station and as far as I am concerned, mass confusion.  Some problem with that train line. No worries .. plenty of time. I only needed to continue on the same line one more stop and then take the metro to where I wanted to go. It seems at this station I need to ask a number of people before I finally get to where I want to go and this day there were many, many people going and coming with their suitcases. After avoiding being crushed on the escalator by one of the suitcases, I was successful and continued to the station where I needed to find the metro that I wanted to take to get somewhat near the church, Concord.  More questions and looking, and finally the metro only took a couple of minutes and there I was, in the Place de la Concord, with the Eiffel Tower in the distance. I crossed the Seine and walked along on the left bank for quite awhile; it was such a nice day and the walk was very nice.

Two and a half hours later, I arrived at the Church, just in time for 20 minutes of the last service. There were about 150 persons in attendance. A screen up front had a picture of a marathon, and the pastor likened life  getting tough to completing the last few miles when you think that you can't. He had himself run a marathon in California. I liked this analogy. After the talk, I was a bit surprised that the service ended with a Christian rock group and then remembered that this was a contemporary service

. I went downstairs to the reception room where coffee was being served, and it was nice to hear English spoken all around me, after more than a month of hearing mostly all French. I met two young women, one an au pere from CA taking care of three boys, and the other from London who was living and working in Paris. They were visiting this church as their French church was on vacation that day, and invited me to attend a picnic with them next Sunday that their church hosts every week, in one of the Paris parks.  It should be fun if I can find it with all of the trains, buses and metros I need to navigate. I will  be glad when the August holidays are over and things are on a more regular schedule.

Walking back the way from which I came, after eating my protein bar, I just enjoyed watching the people, the boats on the river, and the cloudless blue sky. A few minutes later, I was surprised to that the street had been blocked off and a parade (or group) of about 500 or more people were all rollerblading down the street, complete with police escort in front and behind; there may have even been a thousand people; most were just skating along, with a couple of guys who of course were racing ahead of the others. They were having a lot of fun.

I continued my walk a bit further until I reached the Pont Alexandre III, Paris's most celebrated and photographed bridge, featuring winged horses, cherubs, nymphs, gold-leafed swords, and other art-nouveau details. The bridge celebrates the friendship between France and Russia; the first stone was laid by Tsar Alexander III in 1896 and completed two years later.







Totally enchanted, I crossed the bridge to the right bank and walked along the Rue de Rivoli, accompanied by many many other tourists. Some were riding on scooters; it looked like a very cool thing to do except for all the people.

Many boats were going up and down the river all the time; a good way for tourists to see a lot in a short time. Some of the boats shuttle tourists to various sites where they can get on and off ata various monuments and museums when they like; this is especially nice for visitors who don't have a lot of time to spend in Paris.

From this point on, the walk along the river is turned into a beach; people are sunbathing, picnicking, and I joined the happy crowd. Several people were giving neck and back massages and it looked great.  I only had a one euro coin in my pocket and did not want to change any money, but one of the women agreed to do my back for one euro for a few minutes; it was great.

By this time, I was very hot--not hot like at home but more humid and very sunny.  I gave up eating dairy about a year ago (or thought I did until I saw the guy with about 20 different kinds of cones and 6 different sorbets).  I decided that sorbet wasn't really ice cream and could not decide on a flavor but finally opted for the citron vert (lemon lime). I could have eaten four of them. There were tiny pieces of real lime in the wonderful sorbet - I guess what I mean is I will get back to giving up dairy again when I get home.

I was getting very very tired by this time as it was getting warmer, so I hopped on a bus for about a mile and got off at Pont Neuf, which is the one I usually use as my reference point for returning to one of my usual RER stops at St. Michele-Notre Dame. Not a large station, and usually it is very easy and fast.  Hmm ...
I stopped at a small restaurant on my way to the RER and ordered a great tuna salad--somehow tuna tastes better in a restaurant than out of a can at home. The salad had cucumber, olives and tomatoes and came with a little bucket of bread; a nice meal for a very warm day.

A few minutes walk to the RER and stopped at a used bookstore for an amazing book of 5 minute stories, The Buddha Next Door, with short tales of how Nichirin Buddhism has transformed the lives of many ordinary people. I am impressed by today's story and the quote from Gandhi, "An eye for an eye makes the whole world blind."

On to the station and looking forward to getting home, where I learned that my train would only go as far as Gare Nord, where I would again have to get another train on the same line back home. The two young men who are info helpers there said, as I looked dismayed, "Welcome to Paris."   So I persevered and went back to Gare Nord, where I got lost again and had to ask about seven people where to find the train to go back to my station (Vert Galant). There were no signs above the quais directing anyone to anything, and I was relieved to find that # 32 was finally there in front of me.  It was hot and crowded in the train and no seats, but a young woman in a habit (nun?) jumped up and offered me her seat, whereby a young man near us gave up his seat for her.

I was happy to finally get to our station and looked forward to the short bus ride home. Imagine how I felt when a man at the stop showed me a sign which explained that the bus had a problem and would not be coming.  By this time it was a little after 7 and I knew I would have to do the 20 minute walk back the other way.  As I dragged myself up the steps, I thought of the minister's words that day about completing the extra mile. I did some stretching and took a great shower, had a snack and some tea and slept very well.

Mercredi, le 8 aout


A week ago, I took the train to the Jardin Luxembourg, it was one train stop past where I usually go, and the Gardens were right there. I could not go until afternoon as I had a morning appt.  As I alighted from the train, a most wonderful sight greeted me - and it was the perfect day, not hot, not cold, sunny and gorgeous. I was not prepared for such beauty to delight my eyes. The flowers, the statues, the fountain, oh wow, and people were out enjoying the day--reading, walking, having a coffee - I strolled as if in a dream.

After passing the fountain and straight ahead were the tennis courts and of course tennis players; it made me want to play.  To my left was the children's area, with a very old carousel, go carts, and many different things to entertain the kids, who were having fun.  Beyond this area were more fountains, statues and flowers.

The Palais here has been the seat of the French senate since 1799 (not open to the public). Both the gardens and the palace were created in the early 17th century byh Marie de Medicis after her husband, Henry IV, was killed. She wanted an Itlalian style garden to remind her of her childhood home in Florence.

I cannot recommend this area enough to anyone visiting Paris and it is free and located just near the Montparnasse-St. Germaine area.

By the way, that is a real pigeon on top of her head (bird's eye view)

I knew that the Eglise St.-Sulpice was nearby and found it by asking a policeman at the back entrance to the park--just across the street and down a little alley and there it was. Viola!

The first stone was laid on 1646 but the church took 135 years to build, mostly because soon after the first stone was indeed laid, work was stopped due to lack of funds. Construction began again in the 18th century until it was finally completed in 1778.   Here there are two of Delacroix's masterpieces.  Once a famous brothel (Maison de close) nearby catered to high class clientele in the very shadow of the church. The brothel's colonnaded facade with its green and yellow tiles still marks the place. The writer Albert Camus was a regular at the nearby Cafe de la Mairie.

The fountain in front of the church in the Place St. Sulpice is known as one of the loveliest in Paris. Known as the Fountain of the Four Bishops, this is a most enchanting square and fountain. Ernest Hemingway, in "A Moveable Feast," described the pigeons roosting on the four stone bishops of the fountain. (I started reading the book at home but did not have time to finish it, thus another book to add to my ever growing to-read
list.)

I very much enjoyed walking through the church and returned afterwards back into the gardens where I tried to order late lunch at the lovely cafe area; however, three waiters were trying to serve about 60 people and I finally gave up and went across the street where I found a Subway and ordered a tuna sub which was most delicious as I was absolutely starving.  The price was right! 

I will never forget this beautiful afternoon and the magical spell of this park; I hope to take my visitors there when they arrive.  There are so many things to do and see that don't cost anything, only your time and the logistics of getting  there.  This one was easy; the train stop was next to the Gardens. When it is nice out, families and couples get outside and enjoy the beauty of nature.

Please stay tuned; I am finishing this 2 days later and my arm is much better. I am a week behind with my writing. Tonight the neighbors are coming over for dinner; I have not even turned the oven on but hopefully it will be OK; I'm just fixing pasta and salad. The French eat their salad last, not first as we do in America, a bit hard to get used to. You also do not have a glass of wine before dinner as it is part of the meal; you might have an aperitif or similar; I am serving fruit juice and some cheese.  Wish me luck.